R.I.P Hung's😔 “I learnt how to eat in Chinatown… it was where I learnt that the pleasure of eating was something that could be sought for its own sake without the distraction of people or conversation, by myself” - @jonathandnunn, A Tribute To #Hungs. Literally cant say it better than his article [@vittleslondon] of this restaurant and why #Chinatown for so many ppl is that sanctuary place ♥️ Champion the value of these inclusive eating city spaces.
"The closure of Hungs represents something more than the demise of a restaurant and its loss goes beyond the food it served. A part of this is Chinatown’s importance to the first wave of Cantonese immigrants to London and their children as a way of navigating identity".
Last 4yrs in ldn - swerve through to restock, connection, reflecting-on-life over soothing bowl of spicy noodles evoked by the souls of the places that have been standing for decades, and now are quicker than ever to fade. The tones and languages and slurps, other lone dinners, sense of shared comfort, the mise-en-plate, and little nuance of feeling that comes with each place - Hungs for the golfball prawns, wild horses ran, free?, roast ducks glinting in window & sense of slowness; Lanzhou Noodle Bar on Cranborne for the chaos crammed in diao xiao mian, man pulling them fresh, at 5am - Joy Luck for the sweet cabbage pork dumps, sesame slapped knifecuts and groups fishing hotpots; Wong Kei for the free green tea and canteen plastic plates - bakery after for squashy pineapple pandan buns w hot custard waffle fish.
"Chinatown is the glue that holds us together" (@blurryfood in Sydney) and it's suffering post Covid, through "landlord curation", rising rents to social cleanse, curfew on nightlife, no office workers, no tourists and racism.
"Chinatown has given me so much and has asked so little of me; I write about it so often because it’s the only thing I can think of doing to repay the favour...We cling to these dishes because for a brief moment, they allow us to access a part of us that we thought we had lost ─ each time I eat beef brisket noodles from Wong Kei, or a Macau pork chop from TPT, or the prawn dumpling soup from Hung’s, I am also recalling every version of me who ate that dish and every version of me who will eat it, and the imperceptible progression to the person I am now, eating that same dish, finally seems a little clearer" -J.Nunn